Few ingredients in the world provoke as much fascination—and sometimes controversy—as the humble anchovy. This small, oily fish has played a fundamental role in human nutrition for millennia, fuelling civilisations, inspiring myths, and shaping the flavours of world cuisines in ways that many might not realize. Whether hidden in the depths of a luxurious sauce or proudly sitting atop a pizza, anchovies bring an umami depth that is both ancient and indispensable.
A Historical Delight: Anchovies in Human Nutrition
The history of anchovies in human diets stretches back thousands of years. Archaeological evidence suggests that anchovies were consumed as early as the Bronze Age, and their popularity only grew as societies developed along coastal regions. The ancient Egyptians, Greeks, and Romans prized these tiny fish for their flavour and nutritional benefits.
Perhaps the most famous anchovy-based delicacy of the past was garum, a fermented fish sauce that was a staple in Ancient Rome. Made by layering anchovies with salt and allowing them to ferment under the Mediterranean sun, garum was an essential seasoning, much like soy sauce in East Asian cuisine today. The demand for garum was so high that entire industries were built around its production, with amphorae of the prized liquid traveling across the Roman Empire from Spain to the Levant.
In medieval and Renaissance Europe, anchovies continued to be a vital source of protein, especially during periods of religious fasting when meat consumption was restricted. Their ability to be preserved in salt or oil made them a valuable commodity, and they featured prominently in trade networks across the Mediterranean and beyond.
Myths and Misconceptions About Anchovies
Despite their long-standing presence in human diets, anchovies have not always enjoyed a positive reputation. Perhaps the most pervasive modern myth is that anchovies are overwhelmingly fishy and unpleasant, a belief that has led to many diners' unfair dismissal of them.
One common misconception stems from the way anchovies are often used on pizzas in the United States. Many people associate them with the overly salty, briny fillets found in mass-produced cans, which can be an acquired taste. However, high-quality anchovies, especially those preserved in olive oil or lightly salted, have a much more refined, complex flavor—savory, slightly sweet, and deeply umami. Another myth is that anchovies are the same as sardines. While both are small, oily fish, they are distinct species with different textures and flavors. When cured properly, anchovies are typically more delicate and have a softer, melt-in-your-mouth consistency.
Mediterranean Marvel
From the Mediterranean to East Asia, anchovies have been used in a variety of dishes, each culture adapting the fish to its culinary traditions. In Italy, anchovies are essential to many classic recipes. The Piedmontese bagna càuda, also spelled bagna caôda (lit. hot bath), is a dip made with garlic, anchovies, and olive oil, typically served with the so-called pinzimonio di verdure, an assortment of raw, boiled, or roasted vegetables; most often fennel, artichokes, peppers, and carrots, but some recipes suggest even cauliflower, celery, onions, and cucumber. This fragrant Italian dip is sometimes made with milk, cream, butter, or walnut oil, and it’s traditionally prepared during autumn and winter, particularly around Christmas and New Year's. In Piedmont, bagna càuda used to be dished out in peila, a big pan placed at the center of the table for communal sharing, while today it's been spruced up and comes served in fojòt, a type of an individual fondue pot made of terra cotta. Bagna càuda is believed to be the dish of friendship best consumed on a cold evening, by candlelight, surrounded by friends and family.
In Southern Italy, they star in spaghetti alla puttanesca, a bold pasta dish with capers, olives, and tomatoes. While the Italian word puttana literally translates to prostitute and many people believe that this pasta dish was created at the beginning of 20th century in the brothels of Naples to be served to guests after their tiring sexual encounters, in colloquial Italian, the word puttanata is used to describe something worthless or good-for-nothing, reflecting the fact that puttanesca is so quick and easy to make, using simple and humble ingredients and often even leftovers. Moreover, this dish falls into the so-called spaghettata category, which refers to a quick meal, usually–but not necessarily–made with spaghetti, and put together at the last minute for unexpected guests. In fact, spaghetti alla puttanesca is said to have been invented in the 1950s by Sandro Petti, then a co-owner of Rancio Fellone, a famous Ischian restaurant and nightspot. With all these tangy ingredients, spaghetti alla puttanesca packs quite an aromatic punch, making southern Italian reds such as Nero d’Avola, Negroamara and Primitivo the perfect accompaniments to this flavourful pasta dish.
Spain, too, has a deep love for anchovies. Boquerones en vinagre is a Spanish appetizer commonly served as a tapa. It consists of fresh filleted anchovies marinated in vinegar and olive oil. Before serving, they are widely seasoned with parsley and garlic, then garnished with olives or capers. Serving boquerones en vinagre with a cold beer on the side is recommended, especially during the hot summer months. Due to health concerns regarding a certain parasite, since 2006, it has been mandatory to freeze anchovies for at least 24 hours before marinating them. The preserved variety is a crucial component of traditional pintxos in the Basque Country.
France’s contribution to anchovy-based cuisine includes pissaladière. Originating from the French city of Nice, pissaladière is a baked tart similar to a pizza but thicker. In the past, it was usually baked and sold each morning, but today it is traditionally served as an appetizer or a snack, consisting of a doughy base that is topped with anchovies, olives, caramelized onions, and fresh herbs. The name of the dish comes from the French phrase pèi salat, which translates to salted fish, one of the key ingredients used in the preparation of pissaladière. The dish was believed to be invented between 1305 and 1377, during the Avignon Papacy. Pissaladière is best paired with a glass of chilled white wine.
Anchoïade is a traditional dip originating from Provence. It consists of anchovies packed in oil, red wine vinegar, minced garlic, and olive oil. The anchovies and garlic are ground into a paste, then combined with vinegar and olive oil, which should be whisked in bit by bit until the desired consistency has been reached. Anchoïade is often slathered on grilled bread as a spread, used as a dip with crudités, or as a salad dressing. However, it's most commonly used with crudités, so ensure you have an assortment of vegetables prepared for dipping, such as celery stalks, thinly sliced black radishes, or florets of broccoli romanesco.
Asian Anchovy Traditions
In East Asia, anchovies are equally beloved. In Korea, dried anchovies (or myeolchi) are a key ingredient in broths and side dishes, lending a deep, oceanic flavor. Myeolchi bokkeum is a traditional South Korean stir-fry. The dish combines dried anchovies, gochujang hot pepper paste, garlic, sesame seeds, soy sauce, sesame oil, vegetable oil, and sugar. The anchovies are stir-fried in hot vegetable oil until crisp. Gochujang is mixed with soy sauce, garlic, sugar, and water, and the seasoned mixture is gently stirred in the same skillet until bubbling. The anchovies are combined with the seasoning until well coated, and the dish is finished with the addition of sesame oil and seeds. Myeolchi bokkeum can be served hot or cold as a side dish. Every Korean family has their recipe, and the dish can often be found in lunchboxes because it's a great source of calcium.
In Japan, niboshi (small dried anchovies) are used to make dashi, the essential broth base for miso soup and many other dishes. Niboshi (Tokyo area) or iriko (Osaka area) is a traditional product consisting of dried anchovies. The anchovies are boiled in salt water and then dried. The flavour is strong and fishy, while the aromas are bold, making niboshi one of the key ingredients for preparing dashi stocks. These dashi stocks are used in hot pots, miso soup, and various noodle dishes. If not used in other dishes, these dried anchovies can be eaten on their own as a tasty snack full of umami.
Latin America’s Love for Anchovies
Though often overshadowed by other seafood, anchovies have their place in Latin American cuisine as well. Peruvian and Chilean chefs use them in ceviches, while in Mexico, anchovies sometimes find their way into flavorful salsas or fish stews. Ceviche is the national dish of Peru, consisting of slices of raw fish or shellfish that is spiced with salt, onions, and chili peppers, then marinated in lime juice. Due to the acidity of lime juice, the texture of the fish changes, as does its color – from pink to white. The acidic marinade, also known as leche de tigre (lit. tiger's milk), "cooks" the meat without any heat. For ceviche, fresh fish is imperative, as fish and shellfish that are not fresh can cause food poisoning. Peruvians are used to fresh ingredients, so the fish will sometimes be prepared for ceviche less than an hour after being caught. Fish for ceviche can be divided into three categories: firm, medium, and soft. The dish was originally made by the natives who marinated fish and amarillo chiles in the juices of a native fruit called tumbo, which was replaced by lime juice when the Spanish brought limes and onions to the country.
Anchovies in Unexpected Places
Beyond their traditional roles, anchovies have been a secret weapon in many unexpected places. Worcestershire sauce, the beloved British condiment, derives much of its depth from fermented anchovies. Caesar salad dressing owes its signature punch to anchovies blended into the creamy emulsion. Even high-end chefs rely on anchovies to elevate sauces and braises, which dissolve into dishes, enhancing the overall flavor without being identified as fish.
It might be time for a second look if you’ve ever dismissed anchovies due to preconceived notions. These small fish are nutritional powerhouses, packed with omega-3 fatty acids, calcium, and protein. Their sustainable harvesting methods also make them an eco-friendly seafood choice compared to larger fish species.
The secret to enjoying anchovies is knowing how to use them. Rather than placing whole fillets on a pizza and calling it a day, try mixing them into a sauce, dressing them, or pairing them with ingredients that balance their saltiness, such as lemon, fresh herbs, or sweet tomatoes.
Anchovies in Croatian Cuisine
Croatia, with its long Adriatic coastline, has a rich tradition of anchovy consumption. Known as inćuni, anchovies are an essential part of the country’s Mediterranean diet and are often enjoyed both fresh and preserved. Fresh anchovies are commonly grilled or fried along the Dalmatian coast, sometimes coated in a light batter and served with lemon and parsley. Their delicate texture and rich taste make them a beloved seafood delicacy.
Preserved anchovies are equally popular in Croatia, often salted and stored in olive oil. These are frequently used in pašteta od inćuna, a flavorful anchovy pâté spread on fresh bread, or incorporated into salata od hobotnice (octopus salad) to enhance its depth of flavor. Anchovy fillets also find their way into traditional brudet, a slow-cooked seafood stew made with tomatoes, wine, and aromatic herbs.
One of the most iconic Croatian uses of anchovies is in marinated anchovies, where fresh anchovy fillets are cured in vinegar, olive oil, garlic, and parsley. This dish, served as an appetizer, highlights the freshness of the Adriatic catch and is a staple in coastal taverns. Whether eaten alone, with olives and cheese, or with crusty bread, anchovies remain a cherished component of Croatian gastronomy.
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