Bistro Paris is one of the few restaurants in Rijeka operating continuously at the same address (Šetališta Joakima Rakovca 2a) in Sušak since 1936. Of course, there have been ups and downs and changes in concept, but since 13 years ago, when enterprising restaurateurs Borjan Suzić and Igor Bogunović took it over, they have become best known for their veal and lamb under a baking lid (peka), as well as dishes served 'on a spoon'.
The former owner, who used to run a pizzeria in the same place, advised him to change the name because it had 'retrograded it enough.' Borjan and Igor took the advice, offered different dishes, and named the bistro Kalorija. 'This was met with incredibly negative reactions, mostly from the natives of Sušak. They called it culturicide, even protesting publicly in front of the place. "We struggled for a year and were almost empty, but little by little, the business started. When we settled down after five years and renovated the place, we returned the name Paris to it and thus kept our promise to the Sušak Residents' Club," Borjan Suzić explains with a smile.
The name Paris is so popular that the bus station near Trsat is also named after it. As guys from Zamet, another Rijeka neighborhood, they were unaware of this at the time. They recently introduced the Fiumana pizza in a dozen combinations, whose specific dough recipe was created by the famous pizzaiolo Franko Rajković, and which they first started making in their Cont pub.
In addition to his hospitality business and running three other establishments (the Štorija restaurant on Korzo, the Cont pub, and the Marijana bistro in Matulji), Borjan is also involved in the business of the family distillery Suza (Suza Craft Distillery) as marketing manager. The story of brandies and liqueurs began with his father, Slavko, a beekeeper who started making honey brandy as a hobby 25 years ago. The quality soon became known, and more serious orders began, and then his twin sons Tino and Borjan stepped in to help. Tino devoted himself entirely to the work at the distillery in Bregi near Matulji, which now has about twenty labels. Four were presented at the promotion in the Paris bistro. Fiumanka is a 'female' liqueur made from teranino and fruit macerates, while the 'male' Fiuman is based on a macerate of 12 essential coastal herbs. Slightly stronger were Mali Zmaj, a wormwood liqueur with lemon and orange macerates, and Učkarica, a grape brandy enriched with the aromas of wild herbs from the glades of Mount Učka. The guests consumed them, according to their preferences, as aperitifs or digestifs.
Ante Bistre presented his extra virgin olive oil Kali, obtained from local varieties. The olives from organic farming, processed traditionally, are transported to a mill about fifteen minutes away on the same day of picking. The business, which is owned by the Bistre and Vidović families, first started producing the oil for the needs of their own restaurant in Medveja near Lovran on the slopes of Učka.
As guests noticed the exceptional quality, individual orders began to arrive, and to satisfy this, they increased production. However, to maintain quality and authenticity, they limited quantities, so today, they supply olive oil to several smaller catering establishments, delicatessens, and souvenir shops, and a portion is also exported to exclusive places.
They are particularly proud of their Smokvenjak, a delicious fig dessert from their own orchards, and their Fig Balsamic Vinegar. This innovative product was created, Ante says, almost by accident as a result of numerous experiments. In the last five years, they have won five gold medals with it (Agro Arka, Golden Basket, Product of the Year, and Golden Sunflower of Rural Tourism), and last year, they were awarded the title of Best Souvenir of the Primorje-Gorski Kotar County, awarded by the Kvarner Tourist Board. In addition, they also produce Lovran chestnut spread, fig marmalade, and new delicious surprises from the Bistre and Vidović families are yet to come.
A welcome drink was the Paris Cold Platter, which included cottage cheese, a selection of Istrian cheeses and prosciutto, and Smokvenjak Kali. Sommelier Monika Neral and winery owner Adriano Sošić agreed that this popular appetizer be accompanied by Sosich Malvazija 2023. It is characterized by peach, lime, and lemon aromas and is still very fresh, ideal as an aperitif, leaving a long aftertaste in the mouth. 'Making a good wine is not easy,' says Adriano, 'not even for me, who am both a winemaker and an enologist myself.' A good response from tasters is very important to him and he believes that he is on the right path, which his grandfather Giorgio has set him on. In the vineyard, cellar, and tasting room in Lašići near Vižinada, he is helped by his wife, Iva, and mother, Marčela. The family has been nurturing tradition since 1850, constantly improving the production of its 'wines with soul', including Merlot, Rosé, Teran, Cabernet Sauvignon, Muscat and Chardonnay.
Risotto with Kvarner shrimp and cherry tomatoes was served with Vertiz Eau de Rosé, which was recently added to the wine list of the Paris bistro. The wine is the result of a collaboration between the Vertiz wine brand, owned by ex-Yu tennis player Slobodan Boba Živojinović, and the famous Slovenian winemaker Marjan Simčič. It is made from merlot from Goriška Brda, salmon-colored, with fruity aromas, delicate acids, a slightly fuller body, and a sensual finish. It was produced at the Klet Brda winery, as well as some other wines (Pinot grigio, Sauvignon blanc) that are under the Vertiz label, said Klara Čakarun, their representative for Croatia. She added that the ambitions of the Vertiz wine brand are to have high-quality wines from famous wine regions around the world, including Mendoza (Argentina) and Napa Valley, California (USA). Soon, the Vertiz Worldwine brand will also include top-quality wines from France, Spain and Australia, all under the motto 'The World in your glass'.
Pairing Veal under the Peka with Poletti Rossella 2023 was a unique challenge that Peter Poletti, the legendary winemaker from Markovac near Višnjan, took on. The tradition dates back to 1842, when Piero Bernobich bought land from his father-in-law, built a house, and founded an estate with a vineyard. After him, Marco, Antonio-Nin, Eugenio-Šenio, and Peter's father, Mario Poletti, were involved in winemaking. Their work, along with Peter and his wife Loredana, is continued by their son Matteo, who holds a degree in enology from the Polytechnic of Rijeka and economics from Trieste.
The Poletti winery is one of the few in Istria with an indigenous Muscat Rose variety, and it is even more remarkable in that it produces it in a dry version. It achieves this thanks to picking green, ripe and dried berries, which also achieves high alcohol levels. In earlier harvests, this could be as high as 15%, but in the last harvest, they 'calmed down' it to 13.5%, which contributes to drinkability. 'Experience tells me that Rossella is a true gastronomic wine that goes well with many dishes, from fish and crabs to red meat and desserts,' emphasizes Poletti. Unfortunately, some still do not recognize the potential of this wine, but perceptions are changing over time. Rossella is an intriguing wine, pink in color with the scent of roses, strawberries, and raspberries, and in juicy veal with soft potatoes, it proved to be the best match according to the choice of journalists from Rijeka and Zagreb.
Monika Neral, a young sommelier from Rijeka, returned to the journalist-wine audience to present the Franc Arman winery from Vižinada and their Teran 2021 from the Narduči position, which is characterized by high grape quality. Another indigenous Istrian wine is known for its strong structure and high acidity, full of tannins that gradually soften and balance. It is contributed by aging for 15 months in new Slavonian oak barrels. It has recognizable aromas of berry fruit with partial dominance of raspberry. The strength of the wine is perfectly complemented by a fattier dish such as Boškarin Goulash with homemade gnocchi. Father Franc Arman and his son Oliver continue the tradition started in 1850, and their wines today find their way to Great Britain, the USA, Canada, New Zealand and South Asia.
For dessert, Rijeka Kremšnita with three types of cream was served, accompanied by the semi-sweet Muscat žuti Baćac 2023 from the Kukurini winery of the same name near Pićan (eastern Istria), which was their second-best-selling wine after Malvasia, boasted owner Goran Baćac, which with only 10.5% alcohol 'hits you in the knees, but not in the head'. Goran continued the family tradition, switching at the last minute from electrical engineering and economics, which he was also interested in, to the then newly founded study of agriculture in Poreč. He did this for 'peace in the family', but during his studies, he nevertheless became interested in viticulture and winemaking. He asked his father for 500 kilograms of Malvasia grapes, from which he made 300 liters of very good wine and sold it at a much better price, thus showing his inclination towards economics. The Baćac winery also produces Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, all of which are branded under the common name 'Vina z Kukurini,' indicating origin, tradition, and originality.
This was the 23rd 'Wine with a Spoon,' the first in Rijeka, and judging by the favorable reactions, it could soon be repeated at another catering address in this hospitable city or its surroundings, said organizers Renata Cisar and Mustafa Topčagić.
FAMA / Foto: Nikola Zoko
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