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Abhijit Pakhurde

Fiš - Gastronomy Icon of Slavonia and Baranja

Fish stew, or simply "fiš", one of the most iconic dishes of Slavonia and Baranja, represents a real gastronomic experience for all lovers of fish and hot spices. This authentic fish stew, made from various types of freshwater fish, especially carp, catfish or pike, has a rich tradition with deep roots in the cultural and gastronomic heritage.

Fiš originated when the rivers Danube and Drava, as well as numerous canals and ponds, were the primary food sources for the population. Local famous fishermen and lovers of fish dishes created this dish to take advantage of the wealth that these waters provide. It became an integral part of life because fish was cooked not only for everyday meals but also for large celebrations, festivals, and national.

In the traditional preparation of fiš, attention to detail is essential. The fish must be fresh, best caught that day. Apart from fish, the main ingredient is ground red pepper, which gives the dish its distinctive colour and spiciness. Garlic, onion, bay leaf, and wine are also commonly used; all of these are cooked in a large cauldron over an open fire. This open fire gives the dish a unique taste that cannot be achieved in the kitchen. Fans of fiery food often add hot pepper to emphasize the sharp taste of the fish.

Fish stew is an essential part of many events in Slavonia and Baranja. The most famous such event is "Fišijada," a fish cooking competition held in numerous towns and villages, such as Osijek, Beli Manastir, and Našice. Hundreds of lovers of this dish gather at these events, where they compete in preparing the best fiš. Visitors can enjoy tasting different varieties of this dish, from mildly spicy to those that will delight real lovers. For tourists, visiting Slavonia and Baranja would not be complete without tasting fish. Many local restaurants offer this dish as part of their menu, and visitors can often witness fiš preparation in the kettle itself, which is a memorable experience. Traditional wide noodles or bread and a glass of white wine are served with fish. It is an art that reflects local culture, history, and customs. Different fish masters have their secret recipes and techniques, and the variety of flavours of this dish can be felt in every bite. Culinary connoisseurs often point out that good fish depends on a perfect balance between the quality of the fish, the intensity of the seasoning, and the length of cooking.

Catfish, carp, and pike are popular freshwater fish used in various culinary dishes around the world. Each has its own unique flavour and texture, making it suitable for different cooking methods and recipes. Each of these fish has culinary traditions particular to different cultures, so the dishes and cooking methods may vary widely based on local preferences and available ingredients.

Catfish has a mild, slightly sweet flavour with a firm, flaky texture. This freshwater fish hangs out in the mirky bottoms of European rivers. In various European folktales, catfish are sometimes seen as omens. For example, a catfish appearing in dreams could be interpreted as a warning of unexpected changes or upheaval. Some cultures believed that if catfish were present in a river or lake, it was a sign that the waters were sacred or possessed special powers.

Worldwide, catfish is a popular ingredient of hearty stews and soups. Catfish stew is a dish consisting of catfish fillets that have been boiled with tomatoes, potatoes, and onions and are often seasoned with hot sauce or Tabasco. A version without tomatoes, known as white catfish stew, is commonly prepared with added milk, and it is also widely popular. The stew originates from, and is mainly consumed in the southern parts of the USA. In the same area, fried catfish, often seasoned with cornmeal and spices, is cherished by fish lovers. In ancient Norse mythology, the Lindworm was a serpent-like creature sometimes depicted as having catfish-like characteristics. Stories often depicted these creatures lurking in deep waters, guarding treasures, or causing havoc. Although not explicitly a catfish, the Lindworm shares similarities with the way catfish are often portrayed as large, mysterious creatures of the deep. Sounds scary? You didn't see Carachama, a type of armored catfish native to the freshwater rivers and streams of the Amazon basin in South America. These fish are characterized by their bony plates, which cover much of their body, and by their bottom-dwelling habits. In the culinary context, especially in the Amazonian regions of countries like Peru and Brazil, carachama is a staple. It's frequently used in traditional dishes, such as soups and stews.

Carp has a more robust, earthier flavor and a somewhat oily texture. It is often considered bony due to its numerous small bones. Carp is savoured smoked, in soups, stews, stir-fried, grilled, or roasted, and Eastern European cuisines use it in cans or pickled. The common carp has history includes European folklore influenced by Eastern traditions. In various European countries, the carp is seen as a symbol of prosperity and wealth. The story of the "carp that becomes a dragon" mirrors the Chinese tale of the koi fish, which jumps over the Dragon Gate and becomes a dragon, symbolizing overcoming challenges to achieve greatness.

In many Central European countries, particularly Poland, eating carp on Christmas Eve is a tradition. The fish is often kept alive in the bathtub before being prepared for the meal, and it is said that the carp brings good luck to the household. Folklore suggests that if you catch a carp, it can grant wishes or bring prosperity to your family.

Pike is also a favourite fish ingredient as it has a mild flavor with a slightly sweet undertone and firm, flaky white flesh. Compared to carp, it has fewer bones. Pike fillets can be pan-fried, baked, or grilled, often with light seasonings. Ground pike can make fish balls or cakes, often mixed with deep-fried breadcrumbs. Like carp, pike can be smoked to enhance its flavor and used in various cold dishes.

While the primary focus is on salmon, pike in Celtic mythology often appear as fierce guardians of lakes and rivers. The pike is depicted as a creature of wisdom and strength, embodying the wildness of nature. Some tales describe the pike as a formidable creature that tests the bravery of those who venture into its waters.

In the Christian tradition, Saint Peter is often associated with fishing. A lesser-known story in some Eastern European cultures tells of Saint Peter turning a pike into gold to reward those who show kindness to fish. This story reflects fish's importance in Christianity and faith's transformative power.

Slavonia and Baranja are definitely fiš destinations. In areas with fish ponds and rivers, people traditionally made fiš, often spiced with homemade paprika. Fiš paprikaš (or hal paprikas in Hungary, with the addition of sour cream) is a traditional stew cooked in a big cauldron over an open fire. This spicy fish stew is traditionally made with a variety of freshwater fish, such as catfish, starlet, pike, and carp. The stew is heavily flavored with large amounts of the region's staple – ground red paprika, which can range from mild to very hot. Fiš paprikaš is often served with homemade noodles, and it is so popular in the region that numerous fiš cooking competitions are organized throughout the year. The dish is traditionally accompanied by hot ground paprika on the side so each person can increase the spiciness according to personal preferences.

Before the fiš actually boils, spices are added to the mix gives it its distinct color and spiciness. Mostly, the spices are ground sweet and spicy paprika commonly used in Slavonia and Baranja. The remaining ingredients – salt, tomato sauce, white wine, roe, and milt – go in after about ten minutes of simmering, followed by another twenty minutes or so of cooking. Fiš-paprikaš is served with homemade wide noodles, which are equally as delicious as freshly baked homemade bread. Naturally, there are as many original fiš-paprikaš recipes as there are families in Slavonia and Baranja, but the key is fresh, high-quality fish, and preparing and eating the fiš in good company. This is why there are regular contests in preparing this specialty in eastern Croatia, called fišijada, where people of all ages go head to head, hoping that their pot wins the title.

Photos: Tourist Board of Osijek-Baranja County, Tourist Board of Vukovar-Srijem County, Pixabay

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