Hajdučke Vrleti: The Taste of Tradition in the Heart of Blidinje

23 hours ago4 min read

Entering Hajdučke Vrleti is not just a visit to a restaurant – it is a journey through time, into the heart of Herzegovina's tradition, where the flavours of nature and history merge into a unique gastronomic experience. From the very first step, the scent of homemade yarrow and pine brandy reminds you of the strength and simplicity of this region, while the magical landscapes of Blidinje provide an unforgettable ambiance.

We are welcomed by Marija Vukoja, the owner, who has been involved in the family business since she was a child. Her father started building the restaurant when there was no electricity, water, or asphalt in Blidinje – but he had a vision. He firmly believed that authentic Herzegovinian cuisine and warm hospitality could attract visitors. And he was right. Opened on June 5, 1999, the restaurant has become an indispensable place for lovers of the mountains, good food, and stories that revive the spirit of times gone by, so people come out of curiosity or nostalgia.

From the very beginning, Hajdučke Vrleti has nurtured authentic Herzegovinian cuisine, despite the challenges of the time when people were wary of dishes like turkey, the former "food of the poor". Today, traditional dishes are not only served with pride but have become a gastronomic attraction. Meza, an indispensable introduction to every meal, offers various types of cheese - duvanjski sir, cow's cheese, cheese from a sack, and kajmak - along with cured meat delicacies such as prosciutto, pancetta, and sausages. All products are Herzegovinian, and the cracklings are made in the restaurant itself. The owners used to keep their own pigs, but now they work with Mesna industrija Šišović, with a special diet for pigs.

Meze necessarily includes cured meats, so we enjoyed prosciutto, pancetta, and sausages. Meze come from the East and are a real social event. They are served on small plates. They were not intended to fill people up. They come from the Ottoman-Persian region, but they have remained a favorite way to socialize in the Balkans. At Hajdučki Vrleti, meze is an appetizer that we enjoyed immensely. Herzegovina would not be the same without uštipci, which are an integral part of almost every order, while belava – young cow's cheese in butter with eggs and boiled potatoes – harks back to the times when this dish was served for breakfast.

A special place is occupied by pole – a traditional Herzegovinian dish made from unpeeled potatoes, baked and spread with butter. The butter, once obtained in the old way by churning milk in a wooden barrel (stap), retains its authentic taste and is an indispensable part of almost every dish. In Hajdučki Vrleti, it is offered as unpeeled potatoes from Blidinje and is served with cheese from a bag.

One of the most famous dishes of this region is pura, made from corn flour ground in old mills near Čapljina. It is served in the old-fashioned way, in a wooden bowl, with lučenica – a dressing made from sour milk, butter, and garlic. Cooked for an hour, pura is not just a dish but also a story of skill and patience, of mothers and grandmothers who passed on their culinary knowledge from generation to generation. Pura is extremely popular and there is a clear reason to come to Vrleti just for the pura – although it is certainly also an excuse to try other tempting dishes from the traditional menu.

Without lamb, Herzegovina would not be the same. What would Duvno be, whose name comes from the Illyrian Delminium, or sheep, if there was no lamb on the table? Once upon a time, almost every family in Duvno Field had a few sheep, while the rich counted their flocks in the hundreds. Until 40 years ago, shepherds could be seen at every step along Lake Blidinje, because this is an ideal area for free-range sheep farming, where the gentle slopes are full of grass for livestock. There is no celebration in Herzegovina without lamb. It is usually prepared on a spit. In Hajdučki Vrleti, lamb is prepared as a stew, cooked with parsley, celery, and red onion, with slices of boiled potatoes seasoned with garlic. This simple but masterfully prepared dish is one of the most appreciated among guests.

Sauerkraut with dried meat is another tradition of the Duvno region, where cabbage was grown on fertile fields and enriched with pork products, dried and used mainly in the winter when fresh ingredients were harder to come by. It is served in a wooden bowl. We also tried veal and pan in the local or hajduk style. In a time when gastronomy is characterized by a constant search for the new and different, sometimes it is better to return to the roots, and 26 years of continuous work show the size and importance of this catering industry, which employs workers from the surrounding towns and villages.

Herzegovinian wines and olive oils complement the gastronomic offer. Marija collaborates with all Herzegovinian winemakers and has branded her own wines under the names Brk (Žilavka), Mrk (Blatina) and Srk (rakija), with quotes from the Mostar writer on the labels. Thus, visitors received not only top-quality wine, but also a story to take with them.

In addition to the food, Hajdučke Vrleti is also known for Mijat Tomić's Hajdučka Republika, a symbol of resistance and courage. In 2002, the restaurant was declared a "republic", which also caused reactions from the media. As Marija says, "we were declared to have carried out a coup!" But it was all a joke - the state here is entirely democratic, but everything is decided by the president, with no right to appeal! In the spirit of hajdučke stories, a unique competition is held in November - Honest People in Lying, which has been gathering competitors with the best stories for 22 years.

Today, Hajdučke Vrleti attracts more and more young, foreign tourists and adventurers, with the constant support of local guests. Here, you will not encounter burgers and pizzas but the original flavours of Herzegovina, prepared with love and knowledge that lasts for generations. This is not just a restaurant. This is a story of vision, tradition, and perseverance - a story that has lasted for 26 years and continues to grow, like legends that are still retold today over a glass of good brandy.