The bus slowly moves along the southern coast of İznik Lake. The passengers are mostly silent, but a sense of satisfaction lingers on their faces. The olive harvest season is over, the wind gently caresses the lake’s surface, and the olive branches sway in quiet resilience. Olives are ready for consumption, olive oil is already generously enhancing Turkish cuisine, and the inhabitants of these picturesque lakeside hamlets can now await spring with ease. The light blue hue of the lake evokes the warmth of summer but also stirs a nostalgic sense of history. This is unsurprising, as we are in a place steeped in profound historical significance.
The town of İznik is the Turkish name for the site historically known as Nicaea. Referred to as Nikaia in ancient times, Nicaea was a Greek city in the northwestern Anatolian region of Bithynia. It is renowned as the venue of the First and Second Councils of Nicaea—foundational events for early Christianity—where the Nicene Creed was established. After the Fourth Crusade in 1204, it became the capital of the Empire of Nicaea until the Byzantine recapture of Constantinople in 1261. Additionally, Nicaea briefly served as the Ottoman Empire’s capital between 1331 and 1335. Today, these remarkable historical chapters are celebrated in a spectacular local museum.
Modern İznik is a tranquil town with a rich historical, natural, and architectural tapestry. Encircled by the remnants of 5 km-long walls that once stood 10 meters high and included over 100 towers, İznik’s past grandeur is still tangible. While parts of these fortifications have fallen into ruin, they remain a delightful walking route. The Yeşil Mosque (Green Mosque), constructed between 1378 and 1391 for Çandarlı Kara Halil Hayreddin Pasha, the first Grand Vizier of the Ottoman Empire, adds further architectural splendor. Located near the Lefke Gate on the town’s eastern side, it was damaged during the Greco-Turkish War in 1922 and restored between 1956 and 1969.
The mosque marks the beginning of Kılıçaslan Street, a lively promenade where residents take leisurely evening strolls, visiting restaurants and quaint shops. Opposite the mosque lies the İznik Turkish Islamic Arts Museum, a modest yet fascinating collection housed in the historic Nilüfer Hatun Soup Kitchen, built in 1388.
One might wonder why so much emphasis is placed on a soup kitchen, but in Turkish cuisine, soup (çorba) holds a place of exceptional significance. Its roots trace back to the Seljuk Empire and the Ottoman court, where it became a dietary cornerstone.
Initially, simple broths crafted by nomadic Turkic tribes from meat, grains, and herbs, soups evolved into sophisticated dishes enriched with spices, yogurt, and regional ingredients. Soup transcended social classes in Ottoman times, serving as sustenance for the elite, the Janissaries (for whom “çorbacı” denoted a commanding officer), and the impoverished alike. Soup kitchens nourished workers, students, and travelers, underlining the dish’s vital cultural role.
İznik is celebrated not only for its historical significance but also for its olives, monkfish, and its globally renowned tiles. As you approach the town, olive groves spread across the landscape, producing the prized Gemlik olives PDO. These olives are lauded for their tender, juicy texture and robust flavour, offering a delicate balance of saltiness and sweetness. Whether enjoyed plain, in salads, or as premium olive oil, Gemlik olives are culinary treasures.
In local bazaars, up to 40 olive varieties are displayed side by side, showcasing an astonishing diversity. These olives are integral to Turkish cuisine, appearing in breakfasts alongside bread and cheese, or as ingredients in a wide array of dishes. Olive oil from İznik is essential to vegetarian specialties like Zeytinyağlı Enginar (Artichokes with Olive Oil) and Zeytinyağlı Yaprak Sarması (Stuffed Vine Leaves). These dishes epitomize the abundant olive culture in Turkish agriculture and the importance of olive oil in traditional cooking.
Lake İznik’s waters provide a bounty of fish, including catfish, bass, yellow carp, and silver fish. Catfish is particularly esteemed and features in dishes such as Catfish Pan, where the fish is filleted, coated in a flour mix, and fried to golden perfection. Another favorite is Catfish Shish, where the fish is marinated with spices, lemon juice, tomato paste, and olive oil, then grilled with tomatoes, peppers, and onions. We tried these mouthful pieces of lake catfish in the Çamlık Restaurant, a pleasant and İznik's favourite establishment on the very shore of the lake.
İznik Lake’s serene shores attract locals and visitors alike, offering a peaceful setting for walks amid stunning scenery. While the town center is slightly removed from the lake, its history extends into the water. Near today’s shore lies the submerged remains of a grand basilica, site of the First Ecumenical Council in 325 AD, now set to become an underwater museum.
Fishing traditions in İznik remain deeply rooted in the past, with cooperative efforts and rituals persisting today. Fishermen feed the lake with wheat before casting nets and recite prayers for bountiful catches, maintaining practices passed down through generations and recorded in travelogues such as the one of the famous Turkish traveller Evliya Çelebi.
Fishing is carried out within the designated areas in Lake İznik by fish cooperatives established in İznik and Orhangazi districts. Since Lake İznik provides suitable conditions for fishing today, as it did in the past, with its 85-meter depth, traditional fishing methods have been sustained. Fishing nets called “ırıp” or “terlakoz” are used in lake fishing. Fishing methods, weather forecasts, and rituals are the practices that are carried out today.
İznik’s legacy as a cultural and artistic hub also endures. Its famed ceramics, favored by Ottoman sultans, once adorned Istanbul’s Topkapi Palace and captivated European merchants. Though the craft waned after the 17th century, authentic İznik tiles are now cherished collectibles, with their intricate designs reflecting a rich cultural heritage.
Ottoman sultans favored the new look and soon exquisite İznik çini, as the tiles are known locally, adorned public spaces and important buildings in Istanbul, including the court’s main residence, Topkapi Palace. İznik ceramics spread far and wide, even piquing the interest of Genoese and Venetian merchants. This golden era lasted for about 100 years. The decline of the Ottoman Empire meant a loss of protection for the craft, which had all but disappeared by the late 17th century. For the next several hundred years, original İznik pieces appeared solely in art brokerages and museums worldwide (including the Louvre and the Smithsonian).
In İznik, history, nature, and culinary traditions blend seamlessly. From its celebrated olives and fresh fish to its historic architecture and renowned tiles, İznik is a destination that enchants both the palate and the soul.
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