Tomislavgrad - The Heart of Dinarides and the Soul of Tradition

In the heart of the Dinarides, at 903 meters above sea level, in the vastness of the Duvno Field, lies Tomislavgrad – a city with a rich history, untouched nature and authentic gastronomy. Over the centuries, it has changed its name, from the Illyrian and Roman Delminium, through Duvno and Županjac, to its current name, which evokes the legend of the coronation of the first Croatian king Tomislav in 925. However, Tomislavgrad is not just a historical story – it is also the smell and taste of the Duvno region, the echo of the Ganga in the rocky landscape, the hospitality of people who inherit the tradition of their ancestors.

Tomislavgrad is surrounded by rugged mountains, greener than the landscapes of Herzegovina, and is adorned with two lakes. Buško Lake, one of the largest artificial lakes in Europe, is a favorite destination for fishing, sailing, and summer fish festivals. On the other hand, the mountain lake Blidinje, located in the Nature Park of the same name, embraced by the mighty mountains of Vran and Čvrsnica, is a true haven for nature lovers.

The area of ​​today's Tomislavgrad was once home to the Illyrian center of Delminium, which the Romans conquered in the 1st century BC, including it in the province of Dalmatia. In the Middle Ages, this area became an important center of the Croatian principality, and according to tradition, King Tomislav was crowned here in 925. Over the centuries, the city has had various names, but it has always remained a symbol of Croatian heritage and identity. The Duvno Basilica is considered the city's main attraction. In front of the basilica, you can sit in the beautifully landscaped park and enjoy. The interior is adorned with the painting "Jesus, Friend of the Little Ones" by the world-famous painter Vlaho Bukovac.

The people of Duvnjak often say that they are neither Bosnians nor Herzegovinians, but the “and” in Bosnia and Herzegovina. The harsh nature and turbulent history have shaped their character – they are direct, truthful, proud Croats, hospitable and generous. Every visitor can feel their warmth after the first words are exchanged. Somehow, they are always on the border and remain their own, attached to Duvno, its fields and cliffs. The president of the Matica Hrvatska branch in Tomislavgrad, historian and Germanist Anđa Renić, says that the mentality of the Duvnjak has not changed since the Roman records about the Illyrian Delmatians. These people do not like compromises, arguments and deals, they are direct, truthful and fair, proud Croats, hospitable and generous. We felt all this ourselves during our visit to Tomislavgrad, where after the first few sentences, it became clear that we understood each other well, and then an unusual welcome began at every moment of our stay.

Tomislavgrad cherishes its tradition through numerous events. The celebration of St. Nicholas Tavelić highlights its rich cultural heritage. At the same time, the event "The Selection of the Most Beautiful Croatian Woman in National Costume Outside the Republic of Croatia", organized by the Stećak Association and the Croatian Heritage Foundation, the Municipality of Tomislavgrad and KIC Tomislavgrad, brings together Croatian women from all over the world, promoting their shared tradition and identity. This program aims to connect Croats worldwide to promote their shared traditional culture and get to know and support Croats in Bosnia and Herzegovina. The previous shows and selections have featured Croatian women, representatives of Croatian emigrant communities from various European countries, other continents from North and South America, Australia and New Zealand, and representatives of Croatian minority communities. During the selection of the most beautiful Croatian woman in national costume, the city is a combination of beauty and tradition in one place.

Ganga is more than a song – it is an echo of times gone by, a sound signature of the Dinaric climate. In 2010, UNESCO included it on the list of intangible world heritage as part of the ojkanje. Although it is rough and raw at first hearing, ganga carries incredible emotion and strength, expressing joy, sadness, love, and rebellion. Tomislavgrad also has the Ganga Square and the Hajdučke Družina, and it will soon get an interactive museum where this unique musical tradition will continue to be passed on to future generations, along with bećarec. Ganga is significantly harsher, harder, and more layered to the unaccustomed ear, but to a trained ear, the performances reveal a wondrous wealth of tonality, pauses and reprises, or the shaking of the voice during singing.

The name of Mijat Tomić, the legendary hajduk and symbol of resistance to Ottoman rule, is deeply imprinted in Duvno's history. In Vran's harsh stone docks and cliffs, the Ganga still echoes with words of praise for Mijat Tomić, a powerful symbol of resistance to Ottoman rule. This great man is essential to Duvno's identity and national memory. He was born in the village of Gornji Brišnik, where his monument stands today, and folk legend tells of his reason for joining the hajduk movement. Bey Kopčić's wedding guests competed in throwing stones from their shoulders, with Mijat coming out on top. The Ottomans were not pleased and decided to kill him. Upon learning of the insidious plan, Mijat Tomić defected to Vran Mountain and was soon joined by 33 outlaws, whom the folk song describes as follows: "Who does not regret dying, who can reach and escape, and he carries everything he has with him, his rifle is both father and mother, and he does not even know about his beloved."

Its story, from knightly contests to the fight for justice, is brought to life today through Mijat Tomić's Hajduk Group and the unique Hajduk Republic in the Blidinje Nature Park. This "state within a state" has its own constitution, currency and passport, and its capital is the iconic restaurant Hajdučke Vrleti. It was founded by the far-sighted and successful restaurateur Vinko Vukoja Lastvić, who opened the now popular Hajdučke Vrleti picnic spot.

The restaurant also has a Book of Citizens, where you can eat and drink local food and drinks and pay with the local currency – the kubur. However, any other money earned honestly or stolen from thieves and tycoons is also accepted. The Republic is a hajduk, democratic and independent, and the capital, center of power and seat of government is in Hajdučki Vrleti. The Hajduk Republic encompasses sovereignty over its borders, extending from the highest peak of Vran Mountain to the chapel of St. Anthony, all the way to the intersection of Risovac and Kedžara. The legal order is guarded and protected by the elite hajduk guard. It has its own Constitution, flag, anthem, and passports. A passport can be obtained by completing an online application or on-site and costs 120 KM. Every citizen receives free accommodation and a number of other benefits.

Read more: Hajdučke Vrleti: The Taste of Tradition in the Heart of Blidinje

We also visited the Duvanjska kuća. Dozens of local family farms offered their homemade products there. Homemade honey, wines, liqueurs, handicrafts, toys, souvenirs… you can find all of that here, and there are also books by local authors Petar Miloš and Ivana Ćurić. We were particularly impressed by the range of handicrafts on offer. Woolen products are one of the original souvenirs of Tomislavgrad, and the patterns used to make them are an interesting process of preserving heritage. Namely, every woman, upon entering her husband's house, learns to knit patterns according to her mother-in-law's interpretation but always adds something of her own. That's how each piece of work is unique!

We were shown around the Duvnjsko kuća by Dražen Šimić, who showed us the shelves with wine, brandy, honey, and other local products. Despite climate change, the grapevine is still not the most successful in the Duvnjsko polje, but when the people of Duvnjsko decide on something, they do wonders. The same goes for wine, because it is here that one of the most successful wineries in Bosnia and Herzegovina, interestingly named Knebu, was built. At 965 meters above sea level, these vines produce tempting wine in one of the highest locations in the world.

Of course, our arrival in Duvno led us to the gastronomic delicacies of this region, which was told to us by the director of the Tomislavgrad Municipality Tourist Board, Anamarija Papić: "Tomislavgrad is a gastronomic paradise for lovers of local cuisine. A special place is occupied by Duvno burek, specific in that it is prepared with chopped pork and chopped potatoes, and the noodles are stretched and rolled by hand. You will not find this unique recipe anywhere else in Bosnia and Herzegovina. In addition to burek, cured meat products are also indispensable, such as the widely known cheese from the bellows, which are the result of the centuries-old tradition of livestock farming in these regions. With homemade bread under a straw and a glass of top-quality wine, the experience of Duvno becomes complete."

In addition to leading the Tourist Board, Papić Papić is also active in the Association of Tomislavgrad Majorettes, which has been a living souvenir of Tomislavgrad since 1995: "We are known for the choreography of King Tomislav, and we win awards all over the world. We are known for many successes and medals, and I would especially highlight the choreography "King Tomislav". After all, we come from a small town, so the pride is even greater when the name of Tomislavgrad and King Tomislav is celebrated in Paris or Venice. While a video about King Tomislav, a brave young man and a strong warrior, is playing in the background, our girls step to the rhythm of the march. The audience's special attention is drawn to the queen, the leader of the senior team, who is symbolically crowned in the choreography."

Read more: Eco selo Grabovica - Flavours of Tradition under the Sač

The town has also been hosting the Sausage Festival for the sixth year. The pride of this region is the Duvanjska sausage, which comes in both natural and artificial casings. It is an old-fashioned sausage made with only salt, pepper, and garlic; the meat is only pork. It is known for its few ingredients. Due to its uniqueness, the people of Tomislavgrad are trying to protect it nationally and internationally. We talk to the owner of the Grabovica Eco Village, Tomislav Ćurković, about this: "The sixth sausage festival in Tomislavgrad attracted many visitors and sausage makers from neighboring countries and beyond, from Hungary, Bulgaria, Serbia, to Croatia and Slovenia. This year, 205 samples arrived, which is an increase from last year's 173. Anyone can submit samples, regardless of whether they have a family farm or their own production." We ask him if he has submitted his "sudžuk", to which he readily replies that he has, and he has been awarded several times, and one year he came first - by a long shot! But they were eaten too.

Duvanjska sausage is smoked, preferably over hornbeam (if available), and mostly over beech. It is smoked two to three times, although the older ones used to smoke more. The competition is won in nuances, so the taste, appearance, and amount of smoke are crucial. It must not be too fatty, but it must have its white parts.

Tomislavgrad is not just a destination—it is an experience. Its history, nature, people, and gastronomy create a memorable mosaic. Whether you come to explore historical sites, feel the spirit of the Ganges, or enjoy the unique flavors of Duvno cuisine, one thing is certain—Tomislavgrad will enchant you and make you want to come back again.

The cost of accommodation in Tomislavgrad, for the purposes of this report, was covered by the Municipality of Tomislavgrad.