At first glance, viticulture and prison may not seem like a good combination, but the Lepoglava Penitentiary proves otherwise. Their winery, which proudly produces premium wines with a protected geographical origin, surprises wine critics and enthusiasts yearly, including the prestigious Decanter, where they have already won awards.
Wines from Lepoglava are not ordinary wines—they tell a unique story. Namely, prisoners also work in the penitentiary vineyards under the watchful eye of oenologist Stjepan Biškup and his associate Petar Šumečki. In addition to them, Zlatko Manjerović, the prison's assistant manager, manages the winery's work. Together, they created a unique project that produces top-quality wines and provides an opportunity for prisoners to acquire valuable knowledge and skills.
During our visit, we were in the first part of the cellar, where the grapes were processed. Modern devices acquired through the wine envelope enable high-quality processing. Although the winery can no longer receive state incentives due to its legal status, this has not prevented it from further development. In recent years, as many as three new vineyards have been planted.
Winery products can be tasted in the Ivančica restaurant, while most wines are sold in the prison itself. The demand is so great that the wines sell out quickly, especially before the holidays. With an annual production of around 12,000 bottles, each bottle tells a story of passion, knowledge, and dedication. 24,000 vines are growing in the vineyards, and the new plantings promise even more quality and quantity in the coming years.
The winery boasts eleven sorts and two blends, among which stand out the red wines Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir, and the white varieties Graševina, Yellow Muscat, Sauvignon, Pinot Grigio and Pinot Blanc, Green Sylvaner, Šipon and Traminer. Although they had to remove Rhine Riesling from the vineyard due to sensitivity to phytoplasma, their Graševina continues to achieve success. At Decanter, the winery won awards three years in a row, with special recognition for Graševina, Rhine Riesling, Sauvignon, and Pinot Grigio.
A fascinating detail comes from a part of the vineyard located on the edge of a former volcano. The soil, rich in minerals and imbued with semi-precious stone agate, gives the wines a special character. This is where the so-called "volcanic wine," which delights connoisseurs with its minerality.
Working in a winery is a job and an opportunity for change. Oenologists, foresters, and agronomists spend eight hours daily with prisoners, educating them about viticulture, cellaring, and winemaking.
They work together on all aspects of production, but under special rules - tasting alcohol is strictly prohibited, and work discipline and motivation are essential. Despite the challenges, the results are impressive. Prisoners gain valuable knowledge and experience while the winery achieves more remarkable success. They are incredibly proud of one of their wines – a blend called Crni Fratar (Black Friar), which has become the trademark of the Lepoglava winery.
Changes in the climate bring new challenges and opportunities. Harvests are getting earlier, and hybrids of European and American vines are planted in the vineyards. The prison's vineyards, located at about 270 meters above sea level, receive more and more sun, affecting the grapes' ripeness and quality. Although varieties like Šipon used not to achieve high sugars, today, they are becoming crucial for the freshness and balance of wine, especially in blends.
One of the most exceptional wines they produced comes from the ice harvest of February 2012, when extreme cold made it possible to pick Graševina for the trial production of ice wine. Fermentation and maturation lasted two years, and the result was extraordinarily aromatic and rich - a real rarity with around 400 liters of wine produced.
At Laz Brijeg, in the heart of the vineyard, a new tasting room was built, where visitors can enjoy the top wines of the Lepoglava winery. Opened on Vincekovo, the feast of Saint Vincent - the patron saint of winegrowers- the tasting room promises to become the central place for wine meetings in Zagorje. Considering the successes and dedication of everyone involved, from oenologist Stjepan Biškup to his associates and prisoners, the future of the Lepoglava winery looks bright - with the additional blessing of Saint Vinko, progress is inevitable.
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