Wine with Spoon: Prosikito

Restaurant Prosikito in Zagreb (Donje Svetice 40) hosted the 24th edition of the oeno-gastro project "Wine with a Spoon", which was initiated six years ago by Renata Cisar and Mustafa Topčagić.

Many Zagreb residents recall that in 2007, the famous footballer Robert Prosinečki opened a pizzeria and lounge bar named after his nickname in Spain at that location. However, as the popular Žuti devoted himself to coaching and national team duties, Prosikito was run by his brother, Sven Danijel. Later, the place changed several tenants and gastronomic orientations, and last year it was taken over by Zoran Anđelić, who has run the Planet disco in Umag for 28 years. He completely renovated the restaurant, retaining only the bread oven for pizza, and also offered guests grilled dishes, an à la carte menu with local and international dishes, and 'gablece' at very popular prices. He decided to keep the restaurant's name.

The gathering began with selected liqueurs and brandy from The Good Spirit distillery in Međimurje, presented by Davor Balaško. It was a unique opportunity to taste the Golfer liqueur, which boasts a balanced texture and moderate sweetness, with its main characteristic being the beautiful interplay of lemon and sage flavors. Also interesting was the Spirit of Gin, a liqueur that leaves a slightly sweet and juicy taste on the palate and whose aroma of juniper berries irresistibly reminds us of gin, but in a slightly different version that guarantees a fun drinking experience. The Višja liqueur is also moderately sweet, and at the same time, it surprises and delights with the combination of sour cherry and sweet orange. Of course, there is also the inevitable Rakija Viljamovka - an exclusive natural brandy made from the William pear. Good Spirit liqueurs and brandies are produced in a small factory in the hilly part of Međimurje, using exclusively natural ingredients without the use of additives, colors, or chemical ingredients. Their flavors are a real treat for the palate, and the numerous awards they have won at the most prestigious domestic and international competitions are proof of the exceptional quality of these distillates.

Then, Vilim Jakša from Cerovlje, in the very heart of Istria, presented his top-quality extra-virgin olive oil, Komarija. Out of the six varieties he grows, this excellent connoisseur and sommelier for olive oils presented five of them, which perfectly complemented each course of dishes. The guests had the opportunity to taste the Selection, Leccino, Buža, Frantoio, and Istarska bjelica in turn. The extra virgin olive oil Komarija was named after the location of the olive grove of the same name, which, with its 1,500 trees, covers an area of ​​six hectares near the idyllic town of Draguć. The oil is produced by cold pressing fresh, healthy, hand-picked olives, which is evident in its exceptional quality, as evidenced by numerous prestigious domestic and international awards.

Journalists who follow wine and gastronomy were welcomed by Chicken Rolls, an ideal finger food with Istrian olive oil Selekcija (from several varieties) from the Komarija oil mill, and the sparkling wine Pilato Grande brut, which consists of 60% Malvasia and 40% Pinot Blanc. Sanjin Pilato, from the family winery in Lašići near Vižinada, said that they make it using the Charmat method. It was created as a 'working sparkling wine' for local hotels in Istria, where it was served with breakfast. As it proved to be good, it spread throughout the HoReCa sector thanks to its freshness, lightness, and dense perlage, as well as its popular price. The Pilato winery is soon celebrating its 30th anniversary. It was founded by Eliđo Pilato, who continued the family tradition, and last year he handed over the business to his son, Sanjin. Malvasia dominates the 15 hectares of vineyards, from which they produce 12 labels of eight different varieties. Their wines have recently been ecologically certified, which has taken their business to an even higher level.

As a warm appetizer, cheese ravioli in prosciutto cream were served, accompanied by Chardonnay Venari 2022 from Podrum Krešić, a winery from Šarengrad on the banks of the Danube. The wine was personally introduced by the winery's owner, Dario Krešić, a former footballer who became interested in wine while serving as the goalkeeper of Eintracht Trier, a club from the Moselle region, famous for its wine. More out of a hobby than a business and with the help of his father Franjo, this native of Vukova planted his first vineyards in 2006, and the first harvest was five years later. Today, on 18 hectares in a modern cellar with a capacity of 200,000 liters, he produces 10 labels of wine and sells them at very reasonable prices. The Chardonnay Venari is from their premium line, and it went perfectly with the creamy ravioli, which are enriched with Leccino olive oil. This oil smells of grass and olive leaves, is mild in strength, and not spicy, so it beautifully complements the flavors of food and wine. The Chardonnay is medium-bodied, aged for six months in wooden barrels, and spent a year and a half in the bottle before being released on the market. This combination of food, wine, and olive oil was declared the best by journalists at the 24th Wines with a Spoon event. Dario Krešić announced further progress in the wine business, which, he admits, was initially a bit of a wanderlust. A hotel with a unique view of the place 'where the Danube kisses the sky' should soon be built above the winery in Šarengrad.

The transition to stronger food and wines was marked by the Black Seafood Risotto and the Velebna Shiraz 2020, from a newer winery located in Poličnik, in Ravni kotari near Zadar. Oenologist Martin Kovačević presented a wine made from this famous international variety that has been well received in the Zadar hinterland. The winery's name is inspired by the Velebit mountain, towards which the vineyards face, which influences the style of the wines. That is why they are fresh and drinkable even though they come from the heart of Dalmatia. The Shiraz was first aged in stainless steel barrels, then briefly aged in wooden barrels, and finally rested in bottles. The result is a very drinkable and juicy wine with berry aromas. The Velebna winery annually produces Chardonnay, Merlot, Shiraz, and Rosé from Shiraz, sourced from its own vineyards, in quantities of 50,000 bottles. These wines are sold to select restaurants, wine shops, and delicatessens. At the table, Shiraz proved to be an excellent accompaniment to the black risotto, paired with Buža olive oil, which is not too strong and has a balanced bitterness and spiciness.

The collegiality of the winemakers at this evening was truly high. Since Damir Josić, the owner of the Josić winery from Zmajevac in Baranja, was unable to attend, Martin Kovačević from Velebna took on the task of presenting Josić's Cabernet Franc. Kovačević, by the way, is well-versed in this variety, as he was once an oenologist at Feravin (later Enosophia) in Feričaneci. Cabernet Franc is rarely produced as a single variety, as it is being overshadowed by the more popular Cabernet Sauvignon on the market; however, trends are slowly shifting. Josić's is semi-dry with a potent 14.5% alcohol content, but skillfully balanced, making it very drinkable with Wine Stew and Frantoio olive oil, which is mildly bitter and spicy. Cabernet Franc emphasized that it can give much more of itself as a single variety wine than in blends. It was aged for 14 months in oak barrels and then continued to mature in the bottle. Minimal oenological intervention was used, so the wine remains unfiltered. It has an intense ruby ​​color, with an aroma of prunes and blackberries, accompanied by a note of smoke and leather. However, the taste is soft, featuring silky tannins.

In the spirit of berries and sweet clotted cream, Panna cotta, a popular dessert, was served. Like the other savory dishes, it was prepared by the culinary team led by Dušan and Sunčica Cvetković. They only briefly greeted the guests and said that everything they had tasted was also on the regular Prosikit menu, and that they try to make these dishes as good as possible. The dessert was accompanied by Istarska bjelica olive oil, whose bitterness is complemented by the sweetness of the dessert and the appropriate wine, a semi-dry Muscat žutim 2024 from the Najman winery from Martinkovac near Varaždinske Toplice. On five hectares of vineyards, both their own and those of subcontractors, they also grow Graševina, Rhine Riesling, Moslavac, Sauvignon Blanc, and Chardonnay, and from the reds - Portugizac and Pinot Noir, from which they also make Rosé. Dragutin Najman founded his family farm in 2006, intending to pursue winemaking as a hobby. Over time, it evolved into a serious business recognized by the profession, and their wines were decorated with awards from Decanter. The bronzes were won by Graševina, Iskra sparkling wine and Pinot noir, and the silver by Rhine Riesling and Sauvignon Blanc. They mainly sell their wines in Varaždin and the surrounding area, but their quality has also been recognized in some restaurants in Zagreb.

A sweet ending also marked the end of an enjoyable gathering in Prosikit, where host Zoran Anđelić and his chef-waiter team did their best to ensure everything was of a high standard. The duet Cisar/Topčagić is already working on the preparation for the 25th edition of "Wine with a Spoon".

FAMA / Foto: Nikola Zoko