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Šokačko Sijelo in Županja

Alma Premerl Zoko

Since 1968, during the carnival season in Županja, a unique cultural and tourist event, Šokačko sijelo, has been held. Once a time marked by performances by folklore groups from Županja's Posavina region, Šokačko sijelo has over time become an event that features a variety of events - a selection of the most beautiful Šokica, a folk costume show, programs featuring folk groups and children's groups, exhibitions and workshops that showcase and value tradition in a special way.

The streets of the city smell of cakes, you can hear the clatter of horses that often pull carts, yards, and houses are being decorated, and in the center of Županja, young and old alike put on their best clothes to welcome guests. All roads lead to Županja. The popularity of Šokački sijelo is growing year after year, so it is not surprising that during the event, people often ask for an extra bed.


This year, the 58th Šokačko sijelo will last until March 4th, and its theme is the kiva (traditional festival) but also the unique hospitality of Šokadija, especially Županja. Under the motto 'Come, let the family be seen', the focus is on family, customs, unity and the hospitality of Slavonians who are eagerly awaiting the arrival of guests from all over the world. This was precisely what the official opening of the event showed when the Ivan Herman Cultural Center was looking for a free place to participate in the official opening. It all started with a performance that showed how the Županja kirbaj Ivandan is celebrated, from the ceremonial mass, the ceremonial kirbaj lunch to the fair, where new loves are born.

The program was attended by all associations that deal with the preservation of tradition, including some of the beauties who got up at dawn that day to 'dress up' in a festive 'ruvo' and shine at the unique selection of the most beautiful Šokica - Šokački cvit. Among the 12 wonderful girls, the Šokački cvit 2025 ribbon was won by Anja Višić from Gradište, the first runner-up was Marija Rubilović from Sibinje, and the second runner-up was Tena Vukašinović from Donji Andrijevac.

That Županja is ready to show what 12 days of Kirbaj look like was confirmed by the visibly satisfied mayor Damir Juzbašić, who invites all lovers of tradition and fun to visit Županja these days. "Kirbaj is one of the most beautiful days of the year for Slavonians," said Juzbašić, and anyone who sets out to experience the longest one in Croatia will take home memories that will never fade.

Carnival riding and the carnival procession are reserved for two Sundays during this event. On the first Sunday, hooves can be heard in the strict center of Županja, and Šokci and Šokice ride on Slavonian Lipizzaner horses. This year, as many as 93 riders of all ages participated, and before the riders set off through the city, a play was organized and a large Šokac kolo dance was danced. On Sunday, March 2, at 1 p.m., the Carnival procession (first held in 1969) begins, which is also the oldest carnival procession in continental Croatia.

It is attended by riders, horse-drawn carriages and carriages, but also by all citizens who want to wear something traditional or modern during carnival time, enjoying the opportunity to take on other roles. Last year, as many as 800 people who came to Županja from different parts of the world took part. This year, an even bigger turnout is expected!



During the Šokačko sijelo, you will meet the hosts who are waiting for you in front of their home! Imagine - that's what it's all about! If you stay in Županja during the Šokačko sijelo, you will see that guests are welcomed in a special way here. In front of the house, you will be greeted with lepinjice, kulen 'flowers', sausages and bacon, and cakes prepared according to recipes inherited from grandmothers.

The houses of such hosts are specially decorated, and the doors are wide open, which is a sign for the horsemen to stop, greet the hosts and enjoy refreshments. Families prepare for this all year round, and the seven 'stations' are revealed at the beginning of the event. That young and old 'hosts' participate in the event was proven this year by Zvone Ilić, whose house was filled with the scent of roasted Slavonian sausage and served with multi-year brandy.

A little further away, two sisters, Višnja Galović and Sanja Šarčević with their new families, showed that tradition is deeply embedded in their lives. They decorated two houses in a shared yard with garlands and towels with appropriate messages and in front of the house, they served leaf cakes, buns, homemade bread with lard and paprika, cold cuts, and lots of different cakes... This kind of feast is part of the tradition and customs of Šokačko sijelo - everything is served to everyone who comes, and all the hosts, at the end, added what makes Županja special - you don't eat fine, you don't feast like that only when it's Šokačko sijelo. At Šokac people, the door is always open...

This is exactly what could be felt in places that were discovered long ago by numerous tourists who, among other things, return to the Županja region. As you drive from the highway towards Županja, the first village you will see is called Gradište. In the picturesque village center are Snašini kućari - a traditional estate at the door of which you will be greeted by a mother and daughter - Marica and Željka. The estate is dominated by one of the oldest houses in the village, carefully decorated and transformed into a beautiful, peaceful oasis for relaxation in the old-fashioned way.

On this estate, Marica Jovanovac Firova rents out several rooms and a large apartment in the attic of the house, they offer a real Šokac breakfast, and while staying here you will easily master the technique of painting zucchini, which is decorated in this way only in this place in Croatia. Although she is skilled with 'painting' zucchini, her daughter Željka prefers gold embroidery, which she makes 'in three threads', decorating clothes and fashion details that can easily become a detail of any modern outfit.

Along with Snašini kućari, the Šokačka Lady - a unique house in the center of Županja that tells the story of urban Šokadija at the beginning of the 20th century - will also tell an interesting story. Hidden behind a large entrance door, with a courtyard where host Marko Maroševac will tell you the story of its history, but also the influence of Katharine Hepburn, after whom this house was named, you will also be delighted by the 'Šokačka part' that this house hides.

Here, the host will grill sausages and bacon over an open fire, offer you brandy, and with the help of skilled craftsmen, serve you a traditional snack or delicious cakes. When you are in Županja, be sure to visit the places without which Županja is not complete - the Županja City Museum, where director Hrvoje Tkalac will tell you the story of the history of the city of soccer balls, to which a section of the museum has been dedicated since last year.

The soccer ball, which was used to play soccer for the first time in the former Yugoslavia, has its own monument in the very center of Županja, in the backdrop of Ljepotica, Žaklina and Penzionerka - three buildings in front of which the square is located. In Županja, you can eat fish paprikaš (Štagalj buffet), which you will rightly call the best in the world, but also Čobanac, which you will want to take home, test different types of šljivovica, which you will hear everywhere that it is the best of the best, taste different kulena and finally sweeten the day with cakes.

In addition to traditional tourist spots, in Županja you can also visit the First Honey House with a large selection of unique honeys extracted from the hives of valuable Šokadija bees. Honeysuckle, ivy, linden, sunflower, acacia or mixtures such as bronho, immuno mixtures in which the owner Krešimir Čolić adds pollen, royal jelly and other hive products. Having won several awards, this honey has become world famous and as such a favorite healthy souvenir of Županja. Five houses away, another young expert is developing his business. Darko Starinec, also the owner of OPG Pannonicum, has been working on the land for many years, planting medicinal herbs that he turns into spice mixtures, tea and tinctures.

Županja is 250 kilometers from Zagreb (right next to the highway) and is an increasingly popular destination for modern travelers all year round. The Šokačko sijelo, which begins each year, lasts until March 4th. In addition to all of the above, during this period you can enjoy the Golden Thread Fair, the Folklore Evening, the Sijelo of Folk Writers, and the Peasant Party, which traditionally ends the Šokačko sijelo, which is held the evening before Ash Wednesday or Maundy Wednesday, which begins Lent. This year's entertainment is provided by Zvonko Bogdan and TS Kas (first weekend), as well as Jole, Bare & Majke, and Najbolji hrvatski tamburaši. Are these reasons enough to visit?



Photos: Nikola Zoko

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